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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/01/2020 in Posts

  1. 5 points
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    It's only really 1920-22 which are the erratic issues. Once you get to 23 they seem to have the metal mix and striking parameters under control and for some reason there seems to be a good number of well struck up 1925 shillings in particular, i.e. no flattening of the nose.
  4. 2 points
    Yes- i have an awning that I threw up years ago- wooden frame and polycarbonate, and once the sheeting had got old, a big hailstorm shot it, so this year, with more time and loads of sun, i decided to change it- imperial sheet out, metric sheet on. What a laugh. All with a grape vine to be supported through out the job.... Most important, I've discovered- if you are into tropical or tender plants, you must have a not in, but not out, halfway house, where you can drag plants under for the winter, This gives a bit of shelter from low temperatures, but more importantly, gives you control over watering. Keeping things on the dry side is like an extra 5˚ of frost hardiness. The best money I've ever spent is on this awning. Mind you, when it fell to bits, i did sing 'Awning has broken' , so I kept up standards.:) I've only got 10 by 5 metres to work with, and in a way, it's good. I have so many friends with 5 acres+, and they are not in control of 30% of any of it. All my investments have been in equipment, not houses, so the small garden is a lovely indulgence, not a chore...... Picture from window. early in the year, so all the tropical leaves etc haven't woken up properly yet.
  5. 1 point
    The way it shows most is coins where the wear is more obvious. Pre-1920 large silver rarely has more than half a grade difference between obverse and reverse. The shallow portraits - most obvious on halfcrowns - are often encountered with more than a grade difference. For example, the obverse not even F but with a reverse hovering around the VF mark. Yes, between 1914 and 1918 it can be difficult to find fully struck up examples due to the huge increase in mintages during WW1, but it's not hard to find examples in EF especially as many were hoarded. However, I'd amend my original comment to say "harder to find the shallow portrait in high grades" rather than strictly UNC - you only have to look at that portrait and it begins to wear. Agreed - and all the way to 1926, maybe even 1927 too. But the ones I meant are a small number of pennies where there are flecks of yellow (brass?) long after the lustre has gone. These metal flecks are actually embedded in the metal of the flan and give the coin a very odd appearance.
  6. 1 point
    The foam product is unbranded and so one can't be totally certain if they are "safe". The branded equivalent is "airtite" and they are £1.99 for five including the plastic capsules. Coin gallery states "The genuine Airtite rings are made from Volara and are completely free from PVC and other harmful chemicals ensuring your coins can be safely stored." If the coins are VF, then I think they can just go into the capsules without the foam in many cases. E.g. if a VF penny has diameter 30.86 mm, then a 31mm is fine.
  7. 1 point
    Bloody spellcheck changing 'beer' into 'breeze'...drives you mad.....
  8. 1 point
    That's not usual - the 50% 1920-1926 issues are generally much harder in UNC, as the shallow portrait wore very much faster. However it's probably true to say it is more noticeable on florins and halfcrowns. If any 'shallow portrait' denomination was going to be put aside, the shilling was more likely.
  9. 1 point
    Here's a shot of how pleasing just the foliage of Canna 'Durban' can be with the sun shining through it.....
  10. 1 point
    The true 1953 VIP proof set was issued with a very rare mule penny, i.e. beaded obverse and toothed reverse, F244 in highly polished finish. Hence the 5 figure price reached in auction. see http://www.londoncoins.co.uk/img.php?a=150&l=414&f=r&s=l