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Think this has probably been asked before, but is there a way of retoning or dulling down cleaned coins.

I have recently been given a load of old copper, all fantastic pieces, but unfortunately cleaned. My son has also got quite a few given

to him today. The coins have no scratching, so think they have been dipped. There are a number of really detailed Victoria bun head pennies and half pennies

as well as a number of really good George V pennies.

Is it just a case of time?

Thanks all.

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Pictures would be nice, if you can manage. I'm really bad at that myself.

This would critical as from your description it is hard to tell exactly what you are talking about.

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Here is an example. Victoria 1888 Halpenny.

post-8845-0-33234100-1445124718_thumb.jp

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Here is the reverse.

post-8845-0-19350000-1445124864_thumb.jp

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Hmmm, very interesting. Except for what looks to be verdigris, that appear to be a nice looking specimen there - can't really make out the cleaning extent. These should be looked at in detail, perhaps a reputable dealer near to you. Any keys in there?

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Cleaning is very light on that one - would only reduce its value by a little

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I know someone who uses a heat gun which will dull the coin, as always if you're going to do that then practice on a valueless coin first. I've not got any first hand experience of that but I've seen the results and it's definitely an improvement. That coin you've posted isn't too bad already though.

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Variation on the heat gun? I bought a Penny which had been lacquered and recalled having read (afraid I don't remember where) the following removal method: POUR boiling water directly on to the coin then quickly dab the lacquer off whilst it's still hot.

Sounds drastic and a 'no way'. It is not a thing I would normally recommend but, as in this instance, it worked and I'm pleased with the result, thought I'd pass it on for your consideration. Did this a few months ago and no adverse effects (to date?).

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It's probably best to let it re-tone naturally.

I've actually got a coin which has quite obviously been polished (with brasso or something), but many decades ago judging by the re-toning which has taken place since. The only reason I've got it is because of it's rarity - an 1874H Freeman 69, in GF. Otherwise nice coin with no rubbing, pitting or edge knocks.

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Sulphur tones copper coins. I wouldn't try this with an expensive coin but if you buy some yellow sulphur mix it with water put it in the bottom of a small plastic container then add a few layers of soft paper (tissue) and pop your coin in the container. Put the lid on and then store it somewhere warm like the central heating cupboard. Keep checking on the coin every couple of days. You might have to flip it over for even toning but after a couple of weeks or less it should start to look a lot better.

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A quick, simple way is 'liver of sulphur', a sulphur based patinating solution available in small volumes on the 'bay. Practice on cheap coins, and at different temperatures, use it diluted for a slow, controllable effect.

Jerry

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A quick, simple way is 'liver of sulphur', a sulphur based patinating solution available in small volumes on the 'bay. Practice on cheap coins, and at different temperatures, use it diluted for a slow, controllable effect.

Jerry

I have heard of this Jerry have you got a picture of a coin that has been treated.

Alternatively how can you tell a coin has been treated in this way ,such as colour/tone or any other indicator ?.

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Doesn't it leave the strike a little less sharp because you're effectively adding a layer to the coin? I don't know I've not heard to liver of sulphur before, but just wondering.

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I had never heard of it before so have been doing some digging. It is predominately used in Jewellery making and uses a chemical reaction rather than a layer or film on the coin/bronze.

Think I may invest in some and try it out on a few cheap coins to see how it goes. I noted that the gel form is said to be more stable so lasts longer. Will probably order some next week and do some experimentation. Its purely out of interest and I am now really intrigued.

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I know someone who uses a heat gun which will dull the coin, as always if you're going to do that then practice on a valueless coin first. I've not got any first hand experience of that but I've seen the results and it's definitely an improvement. That coin you've posted isn't too bad already though.

I decided to have a try of a heat gun, my wifes craft one. I got a few naff coins, polished them then rinsed and cleaned them and left them over night. The following day I got out the gun. My first mistake was to use a jar lid, after heating both sides I have actually silvered the coin. It looks lovely but now looks silver plated still with a high gloss. The next I did on a rack, although it did slightly mute the sheen it didn't make any real marked improvement. maybe I am doing it wrong. At least I know a cheap and effective way of giving old worthless coins a nice shiny silver coating so a win there =D

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I had never heard of it before so have been doing some digging. It is predominately used in Jewellery making and uses a chemical reaction rather than a layer or film on the coin/bronze.

Think I may invest in some and try it out on a few cheap coins to see how it goes. I noted that the gel form is said to be more stable so lasts longer. Will probably order some next week and do some experimentation. Its purely out of interest and I am now really intrigued.

would be interested to see how you go on Brian , please keep us informed preferably with pictures.

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Patination is a chemical process, whereby a minute layer of surface metal is converted into insoluble compounds, oxides, chlorides, carbonates, sulphides etc dependent upon the environment to which the coin is exposed. Normally this will be a slow, multifactorial process under influence of sweat, water, oils,salts, air pollutants eg sulphides, carbonic acid and I am sure a multitude of other chemicals, and variety of temperatures. The main difference with artificial patination is that the variety of active chemicals is reduced, but the process can be speeded up by increased chemical concentrations and temperature.

Liver of Sulphur may certainly be one toning chemical available, there will be others. I have only used it on a couple of coins, pics attached. The chemicals do seem to reduce the gloss of a polished coin, as does prolonged boiling in rainwater.

The polished coin needs washing, and de-greasing first (acetone, petrol) to encourage even toning. I tried using the L of S solution hot initially, but the tone was too dark too quickly (see the 1863 penny), but later experimented with a weaker, cooler solution and more prolonged exposure (see the 1874, unfortunately didnt take a 'before' pic.

Neither is perfect, but with more practice a satisfactory tone should be possible, certainly both look better than they did.

I would hasten to add that this is a 'last resort' measure for coins otherwise beyond redemption!

Jerry

post-8585-0-92608300-1445364103_thumb.jp

post-8585-0-35096700-1445364118_thumb.jp

post-8585-0-11367800-1445364140_thumb.jp

post-8585-0-08590800-1445364152_thumb.jp

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Thank you jerry i find it interesting and a pity the open 3 had been heavily cleaned.

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Old tried and true American approach: get napkin from Taco Bell (which is loaded with sulfides, etc. ) and wrap up plus expose to increased heat....

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Patination is a chemical process, whereby a minute layer of surface metal is converted into insoluble compounds, oxides, chlorides, carbonates, sulphides etc dependent upon the environment to which the coin is exposed. Normally this will be a slow, multifactorial process under influence of sweat, water, oils,salts, air pollutants eg sulphides, carbonic acid and I am sure a multitude of other chemicals, and variety of temperatures. The main difference with artificial patination is that the variety of active chemicals is reduced, but the process can be speeded up by increased chemical concentrations and temperature.

Liver of Sulphur may certainly be one toning chemical available, there will be others. I have only used it on a couple of coins, pics attached. The chemicals do seem to reduce the gloss of a polished coin, as does prolonged boiling in rainwater.

The polished coin needs washing, and de-greasing first (acetone, petrol) to encourage even toning. I tried using the L of S solution hot initially, but the tone was too dark too quickly (see the 1863 penny), but later experimented with a weaker, cooler solution and more prolonged exposure (see the 1874, unfortunately didnt take a 'before' pic.

Neither is perfect, but with more practice a satisfactory tone should be possible, certainly both look better than they did.

I would hasten to add that this is a 'last resort' measure for coins otherwise beyond redemption!

Jerry

Jerry did you use the gel or the liquid. Just curious. Nice demonstration by the way. Thanks

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Liquid, it can easily be diluted in water and gives even coverage.

Jerry

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Old tried and true American approach: get napkin from Taco Bell (which is loaded with sulfides, etc. ) and wrap up plus expose to increased heat....

We don't have Taco Bell AFAIK. :)

Does this mean regional varieties of AT? :huh:

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Old tried and true American approach: get napkin from Taco Bell (which is loaded with sulfides, etc. ) and wrap up plus expose to increased heat....

We don't have Taco Bell AFAIK. :)

Does this mean regional varieties of AT? :huh:

:lol::lol::lol:

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Yea! LOL!! Doesn't give those neon metallic toners tho! I am not sure if those are silver Morgans and the like baked in the oven plus or minus aluminium foil...

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