IanB

Nice tip, cheers

Just bought one. If in the future you spot someone at a coin fair using one then you will recognise me as that noodle

Thank you Pete, I should have read that topic a bit slower and noticed you were talking about a hand held. I have had a look on various site and there are a lot to choose from and various prices. What I was wary of was buying a shiny all singing and dancing one only to find out I should have gone for a different model.

Wow, 40 X magnification. I did not know they went that high. Does it have a manufacturers name so I can do a search?

Just read it and very interesting, I am going to tip out my loose change jar and have a sift through. This coin collecting lark can get quite addictive!

Done, and I would be interested in seeing the outcome.

Doh! that makes sense about the holes. I have to try and remember to think in reverse when talking about dies. it a bit of a coincidence that the dots are on either side of the O. Also why are they round in shape, if something broke off chances it would be irregular in shape.

They look quite deep. Is it possible they got larger over time or do dots only get smaller. if they were guide lines then the die sinker miscalculated their position for them to end up that close to the O. How would they polish them out without causing wear to the surrounding letters?

Is there something going on next to the serif on the bottom of the T as well as the bottom of the R?

Thats interesting, any thoughts on why, or how they are there?

Congratulation on your haul. i may have to start looking at the half pennies myself in the future.

3 of the claws are bent which might indicate that they held a curved "something" that was round in shape. The 4th claw is upright which may indicate that it was either straightened to release whatever it held or it was never used. if it was a broach or similar then it would have some kind of fixing somewhere on it so it could be attached to clothing. i am going to take a guess and say it's some kind of costume jewellery

No you haven't put me off. I am here to learn, so please keep teaching. I still like the coin, hopefully I can look after it and enjoy it for a few more years.

Thanks Pete, I have had a look with a 10 X loupe and I can see some small dots, possibly verdigris, maybe. However I still like it a lot, so still happy with it. I guess when trying to grade a coin that's at a higher grade then that's when a small difference actually makes a big difference. Oh well got to keep striving for the best but sometimes may have to settle for slightly below that. looking forward to receiving the coin from you, I will let you know when it arrives. Ian

I think I got it for a good price, £11. Out of interest how do you spot how it's been stored? It looks okay to me, but any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks, I am really pleased with it. I would like to think it's better than EF, possibly AUNC? It's got a lovely tone to it and some nice detailing.

The quick and the dead.

Thank you 1949, your time and effort is appreciated. It sounds like my chances are slim to non - existent of finding this one. However you never know one day I may get lucky, probably the same day I find a 1933 in the same envelope or on eBay as a two for one deal. I am going to keep looking but in the meantime the next time I am near the British Museum I will pop in and hopefully see it for real.

Does anyone know of any pictures of a 1920 Penny 3+B? The Rotographic book states it is extremely rare. So far I can only find pictures of the 2+B I might get lucky one day and spot one. Out of interest what would be the prices on one of these?

Colin, thank you also for the link, as a newcomer to coin collecting the information especially the part about errors was very useful. i only have a couple of Farthings so far but in the future I hope to add a few more. Ian

I don't think that's likely. It would be easier to use a piece of copper as the anode than a coin also you would need to drill a hole in whatever was being used so that when it was wired up there was a good connection for the current to flow. Tape would not create a good connection and would lift off once the liquid got underneath it. This coin was tapped probably with electrical tape as the resist and placed in nitric acid just long enough for the acid to start etching but not so long that the tape lifted and etched it all over.