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jelida

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About jelida

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  • Birthday 09/27/1957

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Deepest Herefordshire Border Country
  • Interests Pennies, metal detecting, real ale, vintage valve HiFi

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  1. more FAKES

    Wow, well done guys, I would say that’s pretty conclusive. And they have been around for over a decade. They will be in a lot of collections. Who knows how many other coins are faked equally well, so far it seems to mostly be silver because of the difficulty reproducing copper patina, I’m sticking to my pennies, at least there don’t seem to be convincing copies of these. Jerry
  2. 1860 toothed errors throughout

    An 1860 B over R would be very interesting. Jerry
  3. 1860 toothed errors throughout

    The apparently thinner underlying letters and curly bases are often seen, perhaps as the result of partial die fill prior to repair, or a policy of ‘closing in’ or filling broadened or damaged letters on the die prior to re-punching them; I don’t think there is any evidence that different ‘thin’ letter punches were ever used on the bronze series. Also if the repair punch was not held vertically and the strike was shallow, the letter indentation on the die need not be full width. Jerry
  4. 1860 toothed errors throughout

    These are all typical die repairs, I like the N over N! I think the letter punches were often held at a slight angle, perhaps aiding alignment, and only part of the letter is entered, other times the whole letter is clearly reinforced. They are really only true varieties if the wrong letter or number was used, or the wrong orientation, or perhaps if the repair is particularly botched, like the F10 ‘triple F’. Jerry
  5. more FAKES

    I have to say it looks good to me too, if it is fake then this represents a serious improvement and very worrying, but at this stage I would not write it off, I would not say the evidence presented is irrefutable. Jerry
  6. Auction 152 lot 2434 has the pics. Jerry
  7. I too too have one of these, mine came from LCA a couple of years ago http://www.londoncoins.co.uk/?page=Pastresults&auc=152&searchlot=2434&searchtype=2 Jerry
  8. Hello Larry, it’s good to see you on the forum. This is the place to demonstrate any other interesting repairs, overstrikes etc you may have spotted. Don’t be afraid to list, people may be forthright in their opinions on occasion but are always keen to help and we can generally reach a consensus. Several of the top penny people in the country contribute to this forum. Jerry
  9. Hi Bob, from the new pic it is definitely not an * obverse, the eye line is horizontal, and the bust is clear of the normal thickness beaded border. It is definitely F6. Jerry
  10. Hi Bob, I did ponder over this one when it was first listed, and decided that it was probably an F6. One of the problems I found was that the obverse photo is slanted, making the border rim appear quite thick towards the viewer, but it appears thinner away from the viewer; a 1* or 1** obverse should have an evenly thick rim. It may be slightly off-struck. The angle of the eyes is difficult to judge because of the slanting photo. The bust does not appear to touch the beaded border, and the linear circle is well defined. I am not convinced by the size of shamrock, but either way the other obverse 1* identifiers would have to be present. I will stick with F6, 1+B but if you can take a truly vertical obverse photo that would clarify the issue. Jerry
  11. I had an email from Michael Gouby today, most importantly his eye surgery seems to have been a success, and he is making a good recovery. He also confirms that he considers the ( F33) N over inverted N to be a genuine new variety, which is a nice confirmation. Jerry
  12. Pennies High grade.

    I would be interested Pete, if available. Jerry
  13. Ebay's Worst Offerings

    Looks fine to me, can’t blame the coin for the blurry photo. Jerry
  14. 1874H Penny ID Please 7+I?

    Yes, reverse I is a wide date.
  15. 1929 Florin what happened??

    I wonder whether it has been lacquered, all the rage in the ‘70’s. if it was moved around when the lacquer was only partially dry, you might get this sort of effect. Calls for a soak in acetone, wont do any harm anyway. Jerry