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Peckris

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Posts posted by Peckris


  1. Oh pants. Thankyou very much anyway. I guess we will have to check out the silver and the paintings now, but that's another website...............

    Before you give up completely, you could always jot down a quick list of the coins - denomination and date - then upload it in a reply here as a Word file attachment, and we could have a quick look down it and see if there is anything that stands out.

    Do be aware that any silver coins before 1947 are 50% real silver and can be sold very easily; likewise before 1920 they are near solid silver (ditto).

    Otherwise, as a (very) quick guide : shillings dated 1959 with a single upright lion on the reverse are scarce and worth about £1 in average condition. 1930 and 1925 are scarce(ish), and anything before 1911 is ok, especially Edward VII. For sixpences, it's a similar story except the one to look out for is 1952 (£1 - £2 in average condition), then 1923, 1917, and anything before 1911. There's quite a few scarce or rare pennies : 1953, 1951, 1950, 1926, 1919/1918 with a tiny KN or H to the left of the date. Most of what I've mentioned isn't worth very much unless in pretty exceptional condition.

    And anything in mint condition, or near mint, or at least very fine before 1937, is worth something.


  2. Damn, how irritating. It was sitting there at £52 for literally days. I got a new highest bid with 5 minutes to go, up until about 15 seconds. He must have been lurking, waiting. I couldn't get in with a new bid in time. The shilling went for £77 in the end.

    Oh well, I'd say that was the most anyone should pay for a Type 1 EF (and that's all it is IMO). Spink lists it at £60. I know it's rare, but it's also a very limited market. I'll just have to take comfort in my VF specimen - at least it only cost me £3 !


  3. Hello all, We have just cleared out mother-in-law's house and have come into possession of quite a few old coins. Someone has told me that Victorian pennies are worth more if they have a lighthouse next to Britannia, can anyone help us out here please?

    We have a bun penny from 1885 with a lighthouse and a victorian penny from1899 without a lighthouse.

    Any advice on pennies, shillings and sixpences gratefully recieved.

    Grade for grade, bun pennies (i.e. with lighthouse) are worth more than Old Head pennies without, but condition is absolutely everything. Then rarity, which depends first on the date, and then on any varieties. Neither the 1885 nor 1899 pennies are worth anything unless they are in at least "VF" (Very Fine) condition.

    As for shillings and sixpences, again it depends on condition and date. If there are a lot of coins, you could do worse than buy a copy of Collectors Coins GB - click the third picture from the left above.

    But please don't get your hopes up - auction rooms are full of dealers grumpily sifting through lots of accumulated coins that Great Aunt Maude threw in a biscuit tin before decimalisation (I was one of them :lol: ). By and large, most of it turns out to be basically scrap value.


  4. I found a nice condition 1937 GB Penny that is silver-color rather than bronze. It does not appear dipped or mercury coated. Not shiny but flat like a normal coin. I do not have immediate access to metal testing equipment. Strike, size and weight appear within expected limits. Does not feel like aluminum, heavier. Were any off metal Pennies struck? Cannot find listing in Krause or online.

    Hi Sabiar - Welcome to the forums :)

    A scan or photo would be helpful.


  5. I'm 50/50 about it being the 1st type. I think I would need it in hand to be absolutely sure. The buy it now example I had already discounted it as being the 1st type as the angle on it doesn't help and the neck looks a bit shallow as with the second types.

    I recently bought a couple of florins from morgan9red both advertised as UNC, one was about EF and the other a disapointing GVF

    The giveaway is the obverse legend and rim (I agree if it was 'in hand' I could tell in an instant). The rim is quite high, but the clincher is the distance from the legend to the rim. On Type 2's it is always further away - the Type 1 legend is about 1/3 to 1/2 as close.

    That's worrying about morgan9red. I just bought a BU florin which the photo suggests really is - I hope I don't have to send it back as it cost me not far from book price.


  6. It may be an optical illusion, or I may be getting tired and past my bedtime, but there does appear to be something different about the "1" the 21 bit of 1921. Bit short, thicker & stubbier. Compare and contrast with this one which is like the one I possess.

    Actually, yes I did note that '1' was a bit strange looking. No, what I was referring to, is it's the rare Type 1 obverse (1911-1920). I've examined as close as I can and I'm 99% sure it is. Which makes it RARE indeed, especially in that grade.


  7. 100% a contemporary fake! Fakes from that era (1816 to 1820) are very common. Usually they are copper of brass coins covered with a thin silver wash.

    Yes I have a shilling from (I think) the same date, only just about all the "silver" has washed off mine. The fascinating thing about it is, the detail is absolutely 100% accurate. Which means that either the technique of producing a fake die from a real coin must have been pretty awesome (compare the halfpenny/farthing forgeries of just 50 years earlier which are embarrassingly awful), or someone at the Mint smuggled out genuine dies into which copper blanks were fed. And of course, as these were fakes of silver coins, a hangman's noose awaited anyone caught ...


  8. On the edge of the coin i can make out LX, but there's a space before it that looks worn and would fit another charachter. Just before that space there's something that looks like a 1 or an I. What is this worth? My father has a great many old coins, he has two more of these that are worn more and another that is a commemorative coin dated 1901, and many old victorian pennies. He is 72 and stuck in his ways, hence my enquiries also on his behalf and we would greatly appreciate help in the valuation of the coins described and a rough valuation of post victorian pennies and other post victorian coins. Many Thanks.

    If you could scan or photo the coins and upload them (not the worn old pennies) we could advise you more surely.


  9. I agree it's not UNC, probably GEF. I note there has already been some slight flattening of the lion's nose, which is a sure fire giveaway on all shillings of that era.

    I actually did manage to obtain a true UNC 1921 shilling off e bay. But it is dirty in places, with a bit of a stain on the obverse just below the King's head. Got it for £39.71 in a late winning bid.

    Anybody else ever sat there with a radio controlled clock, trying to time to the last few seconds, a late bid at a ridiculously un-outbiddable high price, to avoid being outdone by Hammersnipe ? :D

    :D Since the average browser wouldn't know a radio controlled clock if it bit it in the Refresh button, I'm thinking that wouldn't make much difference !

    But ... this shilling is already over £50. Anyone spotted something else about it? (Someone out there certainly has).


  10. There's a 1921 shilling advertised on eBay - it's described as Unc (which actually it isn't, which is surprising because this seller is normally pretty good on grading).

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1921-UNC-Shilling_W0...0#ht_500wt_1023

    I remember the discussion recently about how difficult these are to find, and it's definitely EF minimum. The auction ends tomorrow at 18:57 BST if anyone is interested in having a go for it. But it looks like there may be a war - it's already over £50 while a stunning 1923 shilling which ends the same time, is £1.25 and a 1920 (ditto) is less than £10.


  11. hi all

    i have recently become fascinated in coins etc since helping my mother sort through some rare coins she bought in a house clearance.

    las weekend i bought a large bag of assorted coins from a jumble sale weighing about 10kilos.over the last 10 days i have been painstakingly looking at each 1 and have to know if i have struck a beauty.

    there are several good 1p coins from apparently rare dates like 1882,1912h,etc etc also 3 tubes i opened of 1939 threepences,1941 farthings and various dates of halfpennies.many of the pennies have the letter h next to the date wich i believe is heaton mint ? the problem i have guys is i dont know yet as to what the grading is f,vf,ef,unc etc etc how worn makes them worthless and what is the minimum allowed to be worth anything.

    just a note to say i never would have thought i would have got into coins and collecting but all of it is fascinating me now.

    many thanks

    Welcome to the hobby demonik. :) When you've finished with your big bag, you could always take it to your nearest charity shop - they love that kind of thing. Congratulations on your penny finds. The Heaton Mint coins of George V are pretty common in low grades, but it's worth keeping the best ones for yourself, and maybe selling the rest on eBay. H pennies of Victoria are also not particularly rare (except 1875H) - condition is everything, anyway. 1939 brass 3d bits are only worth much in the top grades, but it's worth keeping the best few.

    On the subject of condition, two things. 1) Rotographic (whose site this is) have published a comprehensive guide to grading with pictures of all the main types in different grades - I intend to buy a copy for myself, it sounds so useful. 2) Why not scan or photo a few of your coins (the better ones) and upload them so we can help you grade them?

    A final note about values : age is irrelevant - what you would have to pay for a 100 year-old halfcrown in top condition would be much more than what you would pay for a 2000 year old Roman denarius in similar condition. The guiding factors are 1) condition 2) rarity and 3) popularity (that last is important : you could have an almost unique minor variety of Victorian bun penny in good condition, but it might fetch less than £1000 - compare that with the £50,000 a 1933 penny would make).

    Anyway, good luck.


  12. Have you contracted Verdigris overnight, or is that Envy - an original sin I believe ?

    I think a lot of people cut their teeth in coins of this period, it is after all easier to understand what is going on. I believe in time, those cleaned coins will surely be passed on ?

    Hahaha - no, it was just the colour that seemed to best show up the detail (when we're limited to a paltry 100 pixels square, what can you do? :D )

    I can tell you - and this is personal experience only, don't try this at home kids! - that I've dipped silver, I've treated verdigris in a weak vinegar solution overnight, I've removed 'film' from bronze with methylated spirits, I've washed silver in warm soapy water. Some of those worked better than others, but I have rarely ever damaged a coin by cleaning. The worst thing that happened was when I dipped a lustrous George III VF halfcrown that had a few black spots in the legend. Turned out the 'spots' were some kind of horrid tar-like substance and the halfcrown went a kind of uniform smeared grey and never recovered. But in general, I've been ok so far.

    Bottom line : it's up to an individual whether to try any technique or leave well alone. Judging by the number of cleaned coins on eBay, I'd say we are in an epidemic of frantic polishers.


  13. I've been collecting since I was 12, and the best 1926ME penny, I've even seen, let alone bought, was a VF example.

    Even if you've got the money, you would have to be very patient to get a high grade one, as they do not come on the market every 5 minutes :(

    The one I've got is barely fine, probably no better than fair, with the reverse lettering slightly rubbed.

    Interestingly, when I began collecting from change (as a schoolboy), I waited absolute ages for a 1926 penny of any type to appear, then I was given one in change by a bus conductor. It was another year before I had enough experience to know it was the Modified Effigy ! (A really good F - lots of hair detail - I've still got it :) ). I got another (F) in change before decimalisation which I sold to an antiques shop a few years later.

    About 7 years ago I saw a really nice GVF example at an auction (actually veering towards NEF but the strike was weakish). I decided it was well worth more than £100 of my money, and I was wished good luck by a dealer friend who dropped out at the ton mark. Then I had to drop out when it got too high and it finally went for around £375. So I'm hanging on tightly to the VF I bought off Cookie for £39 :lol:


  14. Ok, here's my next curiosity. (No point in showing a picture as will be obvious if you read on).

    I have a 1967 penny. [Waits for gasps of shock and stunned amazement to die down :D ] Well, ok, whoopee-doo. It looks exactly like an EF 1967 penny should do - virtually no wear, and with traces of lustre on both sides. So what's the big deal? Well, there is something with this one, but it isn't apparent until you let it drop onto a hard surface. Instead of making a nice healthy bronzy ring, it just goes 'clack', as if it was a heavy plastic counter. Yet there is nothing about the appearance to suggest that it isn't normal bronze - the colour is just exactly what you would expect.

    Unfortunately, I don't have a set of coin weighing scales so I can't tell you if it deviates from the norm, but it feels right.

    Any comments or thoughts welcome.


  15. You have to understand one thing very clearly - ALL coin catalogues are inaccurate with respect to mintages, and have been since 1971. There is no reason why the 1926 penny should be any harder to find than any first series penny. If anything, they should be easier, as everyone looked out for them from 1967 to 1971 and saved them, which no-one bothered to do for the "common" dates. (Ditto for 1922, 1932).

    What keeps these so-called 'scarce dates' valuable is that the coin-buying public still buys into the scarcity myth - no doubt fed by mintage figures which have absolutely no relation to any reality post-1971. In fact, I wish someone would undertake a widespread survey to establish just what is the precise relative scarcity of one date to another.

    Tell that to the collector trying to get an uncirculated 1926 modified head penny :lol:

    Seriously though, I know what you mean. As you say there are a number of "common" dates which are actually harder to find in BU than apparently "scarce" or at any rate "scarcer" dates, in the same condition. For me the classic example has to be the 1953 penny ~ obviously collected and stored extensively at the time, being the Queen's coronation year, and all that ~ but woth just £4.00 book value in uncirculated, notwithstanding the low 1,308,400 mintage.

    I think any serious collector is well aware of the difficult years for each denomination, which, whilst including the classic ones, like the 1932 florin, 1905 shilling, 1919kn penny, 1926 ME penny, but also much less obvious ones, like, as we mentioned in a different thread, the 1921 shilling.

    Hahaha - I should have specifically excluded the 1926 ME penny from my previous point. Oh boy, I would LOVE a BU one - wouldn't we all?

    For pennies, I would say 1914 - 1916, 1930 and 1931 are seriously underrated in BU. But also - judging purely on list values - the 1946 penny in Unc isn't nearly as easy as the book suggests. I'd also say that Unc 1958 and 1959 halfcrowns are somewhat overrated, especially in comparison to all 1950s florins.

    Actually, I wasn't really referring to Unc coins as the number of those saved from the Great Smelt Down was probably largely unaffected. And I guess that the 1953 penny was never really intended for circulation anyway, being sold only in those souvenir plastic sets. And a mintage of 1,308,400 for a commemorative is really high and beats the number of coin collectors quite easily. Similarly with the 1951 and 1953 crowns (and as for the Churchill, let's not even go there!). On the other hand, a coin created purely for true collectors, such as the Wreath crowns ...


  16. I have little interest in bank notes, you need to talk to my wife, she can get through them at an alarming rate in the local shoe shop. Perhaps Chris could be persuaded to add a banknote section to see if it would grow with time.

    Gary

    It might grow in time, as long as you persuade your wife to keep away :lol:


  17. Moreover, the point about years in which no coins were minted ~ ie: none dated that year, threepences dated 1947 for example, never having any mintage shown, kind of negates, to some extent, the theory about previous years coins as yet unissued, being issued in and included in the following year's mintage figures (viz, the 1868 penny) or coins minted in a given year, bearing the previous year's date.

    Food for thought....

    Ah - possible wires crossed there? The mintage figure only refers to coins actually struck in a given year, irrespective of the date which they carry. Coins struck but not issued until a later date, are still part of the mintage for the year they were struck, not when they were issued.

    (My theory about 1923 halfcrowns was only to try to explain why they often show up in good condition - nothing to do with the mintage figure as such).


  18. A big thanks to all,for you replies.After several attempts,the following pictures,are the best that my lower end camera,could manage,i'm afraid.

    After reading your reply,i checked out the Royal Mint website,and this coin is in fact,a fake.The reverse should be three lions,for that particular year (1997).

    Other than that,i don't know how the vast majority of people could tell,that this coin isn't actually a genuine one.To me,it just looks like any other well circulated 90's coin.

    That's what the forgers rely on - public ignorance. Also, if you fake a coin with the wrong reverse, you could always try and claim that you haven't actually forged a coin of the realm (not sure if it would stand up in court though - the defence that is, not the coin :lol: )

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