Jump to content
British Coin Forum - Predecimal.com

50 Years of RotographicCoinpublications.com A Rotographic Imprint. Price guide reference book publishers since 1959. Lots of books on coins, banknotes and medals. Please visit and like Coin Publications on Facebook for offers and updates.

Coin Publications on Facebook

   Rotographic    

The current range of books. Click the image above to see them on Amazon (printed and Kindle format). More info on coinpublications.com

predecimal.comPredecimal.com. One of the most popular websites on British pre-decimal coins, with hundreds of coins for sale, advice for beginners and interesting information.

VickySilver

Accomplished Collector
  • Content Count

    2,515
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

VickySilver last won the day on June 13

VickySilver had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

197 Excellent

About VickySilver

  • Rank
    Caballero Ultissimo

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maryland
  • Interests
    Late Milled Silver and Copper

Recent Profile Visitors

16,931 profile views
  1. Yikes, I still have not been able to find either the 2002 Jamaica Proof set, or the 1984 Franklin Mint Specimen Set. I have managed to get TWO of the goofy crowns of the former, featuring a somewhat portly female runner - who the heck designed this? Maybe I will be able to trade at a later date. As always if anyone should locate any of this esoterica, or information please PM me. PS - As a footnote, I was just able to purchase both obverse and reverse DIES for the Panama 1985 gold 20 balboas - they are cancelled with but one central chisel mark.
  2. OZ's IMO looks a bit better overall with less contact marks in key areas. Both are nice however....
  3. VickySilver

    LCA December

    I think that 1827 would have gone for great money if of gEF status in the current condition-conscious trade.
  4. Do let us know; I have a dabbling interest in some of the coins and sets struck for foreign governments and was not able to get satisfactory information from the RM. And there is first the number authorised, then the number struck and then the net number released (because of returns, etc.). Even the net number released does not guarantee that the mint does not have some (or a lot) stashed in a warehouse somewhere.
  5. The 1926ME was MS65RB, ex- Spink (about yr. 2000 from the late and lamented SNC).
  6. Thanks, Nick! Quite a bit of colour LOST, I meant to say! Btw, NO rub on G5 nose or brow, don't know why it looks that way....
  7. Please see coin in PCGS Pop Reports - 203006 under pennies Sad to say this has quite a bit of the original yellow golden colour...... (1926ME for your delight).
  8. I second that! A wonderful coin.
  9. I too am a frequent and happy bidder with DNW. I would put them near the top as well...
  10. Love those shillings, the hair really gives ole Vick a near-classic Greek look...Nice Look at PCGS site at the 1863/1 shilling.....
  11. VickySilver

    Mintage figures

    I have posted on this many times, but in reference to those struck for foreign countries. Mintages are occasionally the following: Authorised limits Number Struck Number released, subtracting returns, etc. These are probably not important for releases that number in the tens of thousands, but more important with scarcer bits. That having been said, I wish they would release net figures for all the unc. and proof Queen's Beasts.....
  12. That Sir, is a very crisp strike. Metal colour a little funky but the stike is excellent and amongst the best I've seen. Notice the lack of ghosting as well!!
  13. I really had near-conniptive fits trying to find one. IMO the 1918 H is also harder to find in well struck condition with hair/moustache detail, etc. and not excessive ghosting. Please show some photos of 1918H and 1919H coins that are well struck of good metal and pleasing appearance if possible.
  14. Yikes, I am scared of xylene and had just a bit too much chemistry to use that one. A possible "treatment" algorithm that I use is: Warm soapy water (with dish detergent) and use of fingers to work it into the crevices and then liberal wash with same tap water (if there are not too many minerals in it) and then tamp dry with a high nap white cotton towel. Acetone works well, but this is what I do: First buy it from Home Depot (or equivalent) - this works out in the States to be about 6-8 quid I soak one of those same high nap white cotton towels and then tamp the surface - NO RUB - and then use a soaked cotton bud (the kind with looser cotton head on it) and use the same tamp method. I then wash liberally with water and detergent and then just water. Tamp dry with towel. If these don't work, or there is oxidation on/in the surface metal, I pull out the household ammonia (the kind without dye) and use the soak method, then follow with the same old cotton bud tamp treatment; then the soap and water, followed by the water. Tamp dry with towel. The next choices are a bit tougher as I don't know what sorts of coin cleaning products are available in the UK now. I use the same tamp application method and always follow with the soap and water, then water and tamp dry procedures.... I have used MS70, Coin Care and Blue Ribbon....
  15. You know, IMO, that the 1919 H if superb and WELL STRUCK of good metal should be considered amongst the best of these branch mint coins of this era. They are nearly always mushy, or of poor colour (possibly as a result of metal mix??) and seem to have problems of some sort. For some reason I have soaked up a few of these over the years and have rather nice 18 and 19 KNs with little sweat involved (and they were about equally priced). I am hard pressed to pick a value for a mint RB (OK that is for Red Brown) with good strike, metal and presentation. CC has about maxed that price IMO.
×