Coins 728x90

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Rob

Numismatic Research Group
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  1. 1860 farthing - obverse 2 or 3?

    I've never compiled a list and image of every halfpenny as I used to use Nicholson's collection images if I needed an in the flesh example so to speak. The halfpennies I have listed are here https://www.rpcoins.co.uk/collections/half I have other obverses and reverses as part of my collection records.    
  2. Tokens are a sideline if collected at all for all bar a few. They tend to be more popular in the US than here. On a personal level, an example of each denomination with a topic of interest or numismatic feature depicted is sufficient for me. I wanted the Young (Coin Dealer) token in the Baldwins sale last year with the badly flawed St. Paul's die. It combined a good example of a die crack and die chip, had numismatic interest in thaqt it was issued by a coin dealer, had wax in the detail telling me it had been illustrated and the die state was specifically mentioned in D&H. That ticked a lot of boxes. Still came second though  
  3. 1860 farthing - obverse 2 or 3?

    What have I done to deserve this?
  4. MS 64?

    A few too many bagmarks for my liking. The price is irrelevant as nobody is compelled to buy and should anyone want one, it would not be too difficult to find another in similar condition for half the price.
  5. LCA March

    I would like to point out the excellent provenance of the F164 - which was the one I sold at LC in 2014. Otherwise, nothing for me. No Victorian Decimal Penny, Minton or Lavrillier, and the KNs have either verdigris or wear.  
  6. Henry VII Tentative issues

    They aren't that common. Certainly not in desirable condition.
  7. Henry VII Tentative issues

    Have to be circulation pieces as they often appear well worn.
  8. Using acetone to clean coins

    Here are a few basic facts to add to the discussion. Impurities are typically at the 1 part in a billion level or less. Please see attached. For the record, this data refers to analytical grade acetone. Different grades will have different impurity levels.
  9. There are some on ebay at 3.99 all in.  
  10. Buy a set of weights. They only cost a couple quid for half a dozen different weights up to say 100g. Alternatively take a new sovereign and use that. A RM error in the weight would be a bit of a curveball, but that can be eliminated by weighing two or three sovereigns to check for consistency.
  11. New Forum 23/12/2015

    Sam Sung's takeaway.
  12. Golden rule: If in doubt, leave it out. You can't go wrong then.
  13. Newcastle Mint

    Newcastle started striking during the reign of Stephen. These coins are rare. Rather more were produced during the Tealby coinage, but nothing during short cross, and then it reopened during long cross through to Edward I. The easiest of these is the later Edward I coinage, with everything else at least scarce. There's nothing in the BNJ specific to Newcastle, but Allen's book on the Tealby conage refers to Askew's article in the 1941 Numismatic Chronicle pp.77-87. Sorry, don't have a copy. During Henry II, the mint was run by William FitzErembald who also ran the mint at Carlisle. He was lessee of the mines at Alston, but eventually got into severe financial difficulties from 1170 onwards and this is the reason for the mint closure by the end of the Tealby coinage. At the end of Henry II's reign in 1189, he owed over £2150 to the crown. During long cross there were four moneyers at Newcastle - see The Brussels Hoard book pp.164-165 Edward I coins are mentioned in the Galata guides for pennies and small change.  
  14. This is a risky way of collecting, which will come back to bite you at some point. The price difference between a gold sovereign and a plated copy is approaching a couple hundred quid. The best advice would be to buy books and read up before potentially wasting a lot of money. By all means ask questions, but before the event and not after.