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Transfer to small dipping bowls. Garnish with chopped parsley and dill. Serves 4-6 people.

Get an ice cream container, place a couple of tablespoons of flowers of sulphur in the bottom, place tissue over and the coin to be toned on top; replace the lid and place in a warm place. The coin tones very gently, more rapidly the higher the temperature. Check every day or two. Natural toning largely relates to atmospheric sulphur compounds, this just accelerates the process. Jerry

I only have experience of toning bronze, but an important factor must be common to silver, namely that of temperature. I have a lamp that's on a lot, with a compact fluorescent lamp in it, mounted base down. If you slide a penny that someone has 'cleaned' in between the glass coils, it's supported by its edges, and sits at a nice temperature, and re-toning is surprisingly fast, and even on both sides of the coin. Acetone first is a good idea.

And the obverse.

I hope this is allowed here - The New Model Crown by Allen and Moore. This one in almost pure silver (XRF tested at 98% silver).

If you are in a city, you may find that traffic pollution, particularly nitrogen compounds, are in fact having the biggest effect on silver....

Yes i went in November although wasnt able to walk round much really enjoyed it ,had a bad fall since though so didnt make it on Sunday. Hopefully be ok to go next month again 👍

I know, along with Master Bates and Seaman Staines - but they're still good jokes even though untrue!

A reminder that Huddersfield is on again this Sunday.

Very nice. The old fashioned "Manks", rather than "Manx".

The three pence also is a little complicated it may be that some of these are Rogers #822 large crown but the bust is not really that hairy but cannot be assigned to any other maker type

sixpence there are three types listed but for some reason I think there are four as mentioned by Rogers

The Shilling, Rogers # 787 points to the last V of the W and # 788 points to the D. My notes in the book suggest one of these might be a 3rd type which points to the first V of the W

Lighting is immensely important - I'd say the most important ingredient for taking good coin images. The type of light bulb (LED, incandescent, fluorescent) you use is less important, but understanding how to use that light source is key. For example, being able to set a custom white balance in your camera for your particular lights is key to getting realistic colors. The size of the light source (small bulb vs. large bulb) or the apparent size of the light source (e.g., a small light source diffused acts like a larger light source) is also important for fully lighting the coin's surface. The angle of the lights changes the appearance of the coin's surfaces a lot -- and your lights should always be placed above your mounted camera lens, if not even higher. With regard to lighting (in particularly angle), I wrote up a little article on the NGC forums some 3+ years ago, and I think it may be helpful. Keep your lights at a high angle to the surface on which the coin is placed, and diffuse them enough or use large enough light point surfaces to avoid hot spots on the coin. See my little schematic below of what my photography rig looks like. Second to lighting, I would say that mounting your camera on a solid copy stand or tripod is very important. Images taken with a hand held camera will be a bit "shaky" or lacking in detail. I have seen hand-held images of coins that get the message across, but the ability to zoom in and see details or inspect surfaces is very limited. Not only is mounting your camera on a sturdy surface important, but it is also important that your camera is aligned to the flat surface of the coin properly. By that I mean, the camera's detector (a small rectangular flat surface at the back of the lens where the image is focused) needs to be perfectly parallel with the coin's surface (i.e., in parallel planes). This is important for focusing reasons. The easiest way to make sure your camera is mounted parallel with the surface on which the coin is placed is to use a little mirror. Place the mirror where you would place the coin, and adjust your camera in the x, y, and z planes as needed until the center of your lens' reflection is perfectly centered in the camera's viewfinder. See the little schematic I created below. Lastly, practice, practice, and practice some more. I have now taken somewhere around 20,000 images of coins over the past 7 years. I have only been happy with my images for the past 4.5 years. It takes a while to get up to "happy" quality -- and I'm still improving my images and tweaking things today. I try to take at least some coin photos 2-3 days of every week. It just keeps me in the "zone". I hope some of these hints help a little. Best, Brandon

Seems to be the Halfpennies that are harder to get and slightly more expensive.

I just bought an example many years ago. It was cheap but not Penney like accumulators. Most are VF+ due to non circulation. ebay or Whitmore have plenty.