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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/03/2014 in all areas

  1. 17 points
    OK, we appear to have an issue here, so let's debate it. You appear to have a problem with Simon Willis - that's a specific issue between yourself and him. 'Dealers all deal between themselves'. - they do the world over. Every dealer has a list of customers and coins they require. They are hardly going to say I am not going to buy a coin for you that you want because it comes from another dealer! They usually have a good sense of underpriced coins, and also have to buy to offer a broad range of items when stock is short. i.e they have to buy coins, but other dealers are only a small section of the market place. 'set up price fixing between themselves'. Example? If a coin is common there is no way that the market can possibly be rigged. If it is rare or highly desirable, then the number available is unlikely to exceed one or two in any instance. The only instance I can think where there is some attempt to link coin pricing, is where the coins are slabbed, with a given number equating to a certain price. If people will buy coins unseen based on the slab number, that is a form of price fixing because (leaving aside the ability to resubmit to receive a higher grade), the grade is deemed to be set despite only forming one opinion amongst many. The same can not be said for raw grading whereby it is accepted that opinions differ and so the price for a given grade has more flexibility. If a coin comes from another dealer, then the selling price must inevitably be higher than the purchase price for the new owner to make a profit. 'shuffle customers like cattle'. Not sure where we are going here. I can't think of any dealers who consciously try to move their customers on to the next table. They certainly keep their list of customers to themselves, which is normal for any business. A dealer might tell a good customer where he can get a specific coin, but that is doing someone a favour on the back of past sales. 'lie on eBay'. Don't know as I haven't bought on there for well over a year. I haven't the patience to trawl through the more than 100K British coins listed. 'don't really have as much knowledge as they wish they had, but do they HAVE to be so nasty???' Again, a bit of evidence would help would help if you want to throw stones. We all wish we had more knowledge. Every area has someone who knows more than the next person. Judging by your post on my profile I assume you have included me in this section. For those who haven't looked it reads 'Gosh ain't you a fine example of the nasty arseholes I said populate this forum....negative nelly should be your name......you are certainly no expert in anything except bullshit'. If you would care to elucidate with specifics, I can make a reasoned response. If it was in relation to my reference to the NNC slabs. As 'Centisles' on eBay, he acquired a reputation on both sides of the pond for grading things much higher than anyone else. If it was with regard to the 1911 slabbed by a company neither of us have heard from, then the uplift in price from a PCGS or NGC 65 rating should be enough to cover the cost of slabbing. I also note you mentioned trolling on the MP thread. I made the not unreasonable assumption that you too were trolling. Your first 8 or 9 posts promised much, but then on Christmas Eve you managed to populate the entire first page (but no more) of the 'Free for All' forum topics in the space of a few minutes with replies, many comprising a few words with little in the way of punctuation or properly formed sentences. They hinted at sensible replies, but said nothing informative as there was no corroborative evidence or reasoned argument for the statement. A post asking for an Ansell sovereign is ok. You then listed 10 or 11 coins in the 'Items for sale'. For someone with less than 50 posts in total, nearly half of which were the mechanical replies made shortly before followed by listing items for sale, you were following a tried and tested method used by people trying to ingratiate themselves with a view to selling coins via something resembling a pyramid scheme. Overpriced silver slabs are the most popular product in this area. I think our friend Henry was the last person to try this on here. As I also mentioned, Chris is kind enough to provide this forum FOC. Whilst he has included a For Sale section, he is first and foremost a dealer and publisher, so we don't flood his website with adverts for our own wares. Certainly not with what is virtually an introductory message. Reasoned debate is always welcome here.
  2. 16 points
    Penny Acquisition of the year for me , just in time for Christmas. f164a Terry
  3. 14 points
    Yesterday's DNW auction win (shilling)
  4. 12 points
    I was pleased to spot this as a 'buy it now' on Ebay, so I bought it then! Purchased on the first, it arrived today! I had been tracking it through Ebays 'Global Shipping' system, finally I can sleep at night. F24, with the missing top leaf. Cost me £150 all in, £40 of it postage via 'Global Shipping', what a p-i-t-a. But I wasn't going to argue, under the circumstances. One for your 'Rarest Pennies' page, Richard. Jerry
  5. 12 points
    Just won at Heritage. 1819 sixpence graded MS 65. An upgrade to my existing example.
  6. 11 points
    A few nice farthing newbies courtesy of Colin Goode (Aboutfarthings):
  7. 11 points
    Received this one yesterday. 1913 F175 Been after a nice one for ages. Terry
  8. 11 points
    A bit off the wall topic but hopefully it can start something. Over the years I've sent a few freebies to young (I assume) members on the forum. I've also given the local schools some coins when my daughters told me what period of history they were learning about. A while ago a new lady started working with my daughter.Talk went around to families and my daughter mentioned that I collected coins. The lady mentioned her 12 yr old son had been routing through her change looking for the best examples. Basically that is how I started many years ago so I have added my best examples to a pot and my daughter takes these in weekly for him. After a couple of weeks I got a phone call from this lad thanking me and he enthusiastically told me what he had. I felt good for this so I went through my vast mountain of predecimal coins and packaged up coins of every reign going back to William 111 and a couple of hammered and Roman. I snuck in a couple of better coins and some silver together with an old copy of collectors coins. A couple of weeks ago I received a lovely thank you card from the lad. Now it seems I've made a win,win situation as he now makes his parents a cup of tea every Sunday morning so they take him to local car boot fairs. The best thing about it he also takes a couple of pals along who have caught the bug. Apparently his pals parents have now taken up the duty of taking the lads on a rota basis thus leaving Mums and Dads to have some quality Sunday morning times .
  9. 11 points
    I am a bit unwilling to enter into this thread as there seems to be a lot of unnecessary testostorone behind some of the posts. My feeling is that any opinions on coins are valid but should be espressed in polite and respectful tones. Not all of us can afford perfect coins all the time and the joy for many of us is in the acquisition, not the possession. Being derogatory about other people's coins here certainly risks putting them off using this forum and may risk putting them off coin collecting all together, which is in nobody's interest. IMO the coin posted is around VF+ bearing in mind that farthings of this date were darkened by the mint so the tone is appropriate. Value is more difficult - in the end it is what someone is prepared to pay for it, so if the OP was happy with the price they paid, then that is it's value to them. As to grading, personally I don't go for that at all - I prefer to keep my coins in the raw so I can examine them when I wish to. Equally I have few coins that are good enough to warrant grading and having some of my coins in plastic coffins would throw off the balance of the others. But I completely understand other's desire to have their coins graded, so don't let me put anyone off!
  10. 10 points
    I wasn't happy with my 1787 Shilling without hearts example, so I have just upgraded to this (seller's pics)
  11. 10 points
  12. 10 points
    Won at Heritage on Thursday and an upgrade to my existing examples:
  13. 10 points
    A couple of my recent additions: Slabbed as MS64
  14. 10 points
    Latest purchase and awaiting delivery. A very common date but I do like the obverse strike. I am inclined to think that it is very difficult to get a fully struck reverse with 1923. Graded as BU by seller.
  15. 10 points
    Ebay BIN £60. Hard to find such bargains on there nowadays.
  16. 10 points
    1834 Shilling courtesy of Rob, hoping to take more representative pics soon, but EF problem-free and toned in-hand and a significant upgrade on what I had
  17. 10 points
    A rar-ish penny acquisition from me (as in rare that I buy one!)
  18. 10 points
    @Paulus I am very sorry that I did not see this topic until just now. I have no idea how I missed it, but I only poke my head in every once in a while in the summer months, and I see it was posted in July. Nonetheless, I will post a bit below on my methods. Firstly, let me just say that your pictures have improved a great deal Paulus. You're capturing luster very well in your more recent images, and the focus is also much sharper. I feel a lot of people pay too much attention to the bells and whistles on fancy cameras or purchase really expensive lenses hoping that having the right (i.e., expensive) equipment will somehow make you a better photographer. For coin photography, the most important pieces are often the very inexpensive ones of the equation. Lighting is immensely important - I'd say the most important ingredient for taking good coin images. The type of light bulb (LED, incandescent, fluorescent) you use is less important, but understanding how to use that light source is key. For example, being able to set a custom white balance in your camera for your particular lights is key to getting realistic colors. The size of the light source (small bulb vs. large bulb) or the apparent size of the light source (e.g., a small light source diffused acts like a larger light source) is also important for fully lighting the coin's surface. The angle of the lights changes the appearance of the coin's surfaces a lot -- and your lights should always be placed above your mounted camera lens, if not even higher. With regard to lighting (in particularly angle), I wrote up a little article on the NGC forums some 3+ years ago, and I think it may be helpful. Keep your lights at a high angle to the surface on which the coin is placed, and diffuse them enough or use large enough light point surfaces to avoid hot spots on the coin. See my little schematic below of what my photography rig looks like. Second to lighting, I would say that mounting your camera on a solid copy stand or tripod is very important. Images taken with a hand held camera will be a bit "shaky" or lacking in detail. I have seen hand-held images of coins that get the message across, but the ability to zoom in and see details or inspect surfaces is very limited. Not only is mounting your camera on a sturdy surface important, but it is also important that your camera is aligned to the flat surface of the coin properly. By that I mean, the camera's detector (a small rectangular flat surface at the back of the lens where the image is focused) needs to be perfectly parallel with the coin's surface (i.e., in parallel planes). This is important for focusing reasons. The easiest way to make sure your camera is mounted parallel with the surface on which the coin is placed is to use a little mirror. Place the mirror where you would place the coin, and adjust your camera in the x, y, and z planes as needed until the center of your lens' reflection is perfectly centered in the camera's viewfinder. See the little schematic I created below. Lastly, practice, practice, and practice some more. I have now taken somewhere around 20,000 images of coins over the past 7 years. I have only been happy with my images for the past 4.5 years. It takes a while to get up to "happy" quality -- and I'm still improving my images and tweaking things today. I try to take at least some coin photos 2-3 days of every week. It just keeps me in the "zone". I hope some of these hints help a little. Best, Brandon
  19. 9 points
    Having picked up the rough old BP1874Nn (1874H 7 over 7) above only a couple of weeks ago, Bernie kindly pointed me to a superb example (not described as such) on Baldwin's For Sale list which I snapped up immediately.
  20. 9 points
    Not new but sharing anyway on this thread!
  21. 9 points
    Latest purchase and awaiting delivery.
  22. 9 points
    Not a recent acquisition, but worth a viewing.
  23. 9 points
  24. 9 points
    I spent a very enjoyable two and a half hours at the Royal Mint Experience today, at Llantrisant. The tour was excellent, pitched at a good level so that everyone could understand the basics of how the coins are produced, and although you don't see the furnace or where the metal is rolled out into coils, you do get to see the factory floor where the coins are being struck. I paid the extra fee to strike the new 12-sided £1 coin (well 'strike' is an overstatement, you press the button). The staff member puts the bimetallic blank into the collar, and then the dies strike the coin twice. This makes it a BU coin as opposed to a circulating coin. For circulating coins, the dies strike the coin only once. The volume and scale of production is impressive. I've visited several factories (I used to work for a couple of food companies) and seeing production and distribution facilities is always a real eye-opener. The real area of interest for people like us is the set of exhibition rooms. These contain all sorts of interesting artefacts from the design and production processes, as well as plenty of coins. Some of which are fantastically rare and beautiful, but some of which would be best described by Pete as rang tang! As someone with a fairly modest collection compared to some, this made me smile! Anyway, here are some photos which I hope you'll enjoy. They aren't the best quality - taken with my phone and of course the coins are behind glass or plastic. I would thoroughly recommend visiting and would gladly go again! One of several items relating to Isaac Newton: Trial plates - from 1477, and 1707: Cromwell die, Charles II punch: Five Guineas of Charles II (Elephant) and Anne (Vigo): Sovereigns: James I Unite: Pistrucci's engravings of George III's head on Jasper discs. I recognise the second one as being the sixpence or shilling, and the third one as being the 'bull head' halfcrown, but what's the first one? London 2012 Olympic medals: Can't remember exactly what this is - Henry VII or VIII I think? Henry VIII Testoon: Edward VI Sovereign(?): Penny of some description: Now this shell is impressive: Beauty and the rang tang Cartwheel Penny: A family of Nobles: George V £1 banknote: 1935 Silver Jubilee Gold Crown - never knew these existed: Elizabeth I Pound: 1746 proof set: I think this is an 1853 proof set (the label said 1893 but it certainly isn't): A one kilo gold coin from 2015: And now the very rare/interesting stuff. Here's an Edward VIII sovereign: Una and the Lion £5, and the corresponding die: And finally: Do I detect a spot of verdigris on the border teeth at about 10 o'clock? ____ What a treat, a cracking place to visit. I bought a £20 Welsh dragon fine silver coin as well as a memento. Hope you enjoyed the pictures!
  25. 9 points
    My latest acquisition is a Freeman 17, which is in GEF with some residual lustre. Unfortunately there are some light but noticeable scratches, especially to the reverse, which do detract somewhat. But as it's scarce, otherwise very nice, and I got it for a reduced price, it was worth buying. Another notch on the 1860 and 1861 joint series project bedpost.





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