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 Predecimal.com.
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- Today
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although if that's the hammer price, once you've paid the premium plus import tax etc, it'll be over 5K. Still worth it - they're >10x rarer than the 1839.
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That is a very good price. I'd have bought it.
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Thanks Ian - did you buy it ?
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- Yesterday
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I remember paying around £7.50 for one in the late 70s. That must be around £30 now? However I can understand their popularity - they are the only proof set of their type and were only created due to collector demand.
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What grade did they slab it at ?
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Not sure I can be classed as 'regular', but still very much into coins at the age of 35 and 10/12ths.
I remember Peter being the very first person to reply to my first post! I see his last visit was in 2019 - so pre-covid! Hopefully he's ok!
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Thanks Ian.
Regardless of the cost, whoever got it will never need to upgrade again. A magnificent coin.
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They fetched quite a premium a short time after issue along with 1972 and 1973.
They are very cheap now near fifty years on ....
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One of the best I've ever seen, Ian. Not sure it's worth £4k though.
Do you have a pic of the obverse as well?
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620,000 Yen Hammer on this 1841 penny last week, but when you convert that to approx. £4,000 then it doesn't seem so bad.
Would prefer it to my 1839 proof, even though it's a grade higher.
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I think you are just being diplomatic and I think the word is "won't" rather than "might". Any toning on bronze and copper coins is considered by collectors to be negative, and an untoned example with full lustre is much more desirable and expensive. Let's use the 1970 proof set as an example. They have gone up quite a bit in price during the last few years and are now selling for £15+. I have finally got round to buying one quite recently and it was difficult finding one with untoned bronze. Once a set is opened, it will start to tone for certain. Proof coins can easily lose their brilliance and appear misted.
Don't get me wrong. I like love coins with eye catching toning. But great toning can take decades to form and it's much more likely to happen in the original case or in a cabinet than in a plastic flip. Our ideas of what good toning looks like do change as we become more experienced.
From a money view point, it doesn't matter much if you do split a 1970 set. (But it would be a real shame to split one with untoned bronze!). Lots of them got split and are sold separately anyway.
There is no shortage of 1970 proof set for sale on eBay. 129 are on offer now.
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Cheers all. Im a bit wiser
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A lot of the over strikes on the wrong letter or number on the date seem to be were the wrong punch was used , as the person striking them forgot the die was in reverse.
This is exactly the same and the opposite letter is the P in penny ,so intitally struck with a P and then again with an F.This could cause a flaw or uneven letter as never going to be struck exactly the same as the first letter and can also look slightly different due to one letter / number being struck through the other.
Very similar to the 1858 F/B Copper penny ( B in Britanniar ) that is recorded.
Maybe 😀
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On both of the previous overstrikes the underlying P is clear, albeit on the F-282, being more worn, it is less obvious.
I did have one or two dubious F/P's which were clearly flattened serifs upon closer examination. If I find them again or images, I'll post them for comparison.
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The F over P from my F-282 (7 & g)
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The F over P from my F-277 (6 & g)
- Last week
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This would be true if the letter punch were held truly vertically, but not if the strike was made at a slight angle. Many of the overstruck letters and digits we see are partial.
Jerry
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Here's someone who seems to have several sets:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1970-Royal-Mint-8-coin-Proof-set-/353541204797?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAiA866PBhAYEiwANkIneN63Y_Dzh8MtNIVTCHFONtRqWQpNGPzxVLSMOvWoFU5eKG8pHuy3MhoCBXUQAvD_BwE
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The main problem seems to be the left hand edge of each letter: on the supposed overstrike F/P, the serifs extend at exact right angles, like they do on the L. However, the P of penny has a regular curve extending from the bottom to the top on the left hand side; this makes the serifs rounded rather than extending straight at right angles.
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This is the narrowest Date type that i have come across, not listed by Gouby and even Rarer.
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Other than CGS own references i cant find it listed. Doesnt tie up with a freeman as farcas i can tell. Bugging me 😂
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The 9.5 teeth is the width of the date in relation to the teeth on the edge of the coin. The offset of the reverse "slightly" to the obverse, is relatively common. You have a really nice coin!
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